NEW DISTILLERY CELEBRATES BARLEY
STORY AND PHOTO BY DON TSE
Some have dubbed it “The Parthenon of Booze.” But Bryce Parsons, CEO and founder of True Wild Distilling, said the business’s impressive Calgary headquarters is a showcase for Alberta agriculture. The $14 million destination distillery, restaurant and event space is housed in a decommissioned electrical substation built in 1911. It boasts an imposingly beautiful white edifice, hence the reference to the ancient architectural wonder.
“Alberta is great at grains, protein and produce,” said Parsons. His vision is to leverage these agricultural products, especially grains. While alcohol is True Wild’s signature product, the restaurant serves dry aged Alberta beef and other Alberta farm fare.
Trained as a distiller in Edinburgh, Scotland, at Heriot-Watt University, famed for its agricultural research and brewing and distilling programs, Parsons said the main reason he created True Wild is to make world-class whisky and other spirits from Alberta grains. He describes his approach as “farm to glass,” and hopes to work with all Alberta maltsters to utilize traditional whisky grains such as barley, wheat and corn, but also lesser used crops such as triticale.
“Alberta’s grains are sought by distillers around the world,” said Parsons. “And yet, Canadian whisky is seen as a commodity. I see the opportunity for an independent producer to bring to market a premium product built on Alberta grains.” Parsons noted Scotland is the world’s best known malt whisky producer, yet Alberta grows four times as much barley as does that entire country. “It seems silly to build a distillery anywhere but Alberta.”
Complementary to its stately exterior, the True Wild building maintains historic elements such as a cast-iron spiral staircase and 12-metre ceiling. But its real showpiece is the gleaming copper distillery equipment situated behind blast-proof windows nearly five-metres tall.
This includes a nine-metre-tall cylindrical column still that creates clean, relatively neutral spirits. Two equally imposing fat-bellied pot stills leave more flavour compounds, known as congeners, in the spirit than do column stills. The smaller of the two is outfitted with a custom botanical vapour chamber. Here, the spirit vapours are passed through flavourful ingredients such as juniper for gin, and various additional plants, seeds and spices can be used. This array of equipment gives True Wild the versatility to produce many beverages using a variety of grains.
By legal requirement, prior to being bottled, whisky is aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels. Usually differing barrels are mixed. These may vary by grain type, age or even storage temperature. Parsons segregates and carefully tracks the contents of these whisky barrels, down to the farm on which the distilling grains are grown.
He plans to provide feedback to farmers, maltsters and even agricultural researchers as to which processes and ingredients work best. For instance, he plans to use AB Dram, the first non-glycosidic nitrile barley bred in Alberta specifically for distillers. “I want this distillery to have an impact on the agricultural economy,” said Parsons. “And I want Albertans to be proud of our whisky.”
True Wild is the master brand under which the distillery’s own whisky will be marketed. The maturation process is unpredictable, but its first bottles will be ready in no less than three years. While eager whisky lovers await, the company produces premium gin and vodka under the sub-brand Breaker Box. The gin is made with the use of vapour infusion, mentioned above. An additional subbrand now available, Roper’s Hold features unique whisky blends created with alcohol produced by fellow distillers.
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